When the feet and beaks of your ducks are horny, marks of advanced years, it is not a bad idea to begin thinking of braising. Stuff each fowl with apples, celery, and onion, sliced in equal amounts. Place in a roaster, along with a sliced onion and 4 stalks of celery that are complete with leaves. Pour in 1/2 inch of boiling water.
Cover and cook in a slow 325° oven for an hour, adding any boiling water that may be needed to maintain the H-inch level. Then uncover, lightly encrust the duck with a grating of orange rind, and cook with the lid off 30 minutes longer.
Remove the stuffing, sprinkle each duck with a tablespoon of fresh orange juice, place on a heated platter and keep hot while you prepare the sauce. Strain the pan juices into a saucepan and boil rapidly until the liquid is reduced to 2 cups. Check the seasoning, adding a jigger of brandy if you wish, and remove from the heat.
Thicken with beurre manié, made by kneading 2 tablespoons of butter with 3 tablespoons of flour until a smooth paste is achieved. With a wire whip, beat the beurre manie into the hot liquid, then return to a low flame. Stirring constantly, bring the sauce to a simmer and continue to stir at a simmer for a minute or two, until the sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon.
Wild rice and highbush cranberry jelly make a savory accompaniment, especially when the full moon is shining into the room, laying a pattern of the windows on the carpet.